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Robert Parker vs Romanee-Conti vs Penfolds Grange

Txoj hmoo ntawm innovators yog tortuous, thiab txoj hmoo ntawm challengers yog bumpy.

Thaum lub "Caw Emperor" Robert Parker nyob rau hauv lub hwj chim, lub ntsiab style nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb wine yog tsim wines nrog hnyav ntoo qhib chim, hnyav saj, fruity aroma thiab ntau dua cawv cov ntsiab lus uas Parker nyiam. Vim tias hom cawv no ua raws li cov txiaj ntsig tseem ceeb ntawm kev lag luam cawv, nws yooj yim tshwj xeeb los yeej khoom plig hauv ntau yam khoom plig wine. Parker sawv cev rau qhov sib txawv ntawm kev lag luam cawv, sawv cev rau kev nplua nuj thiab tsis muaj kev txwv cawv.

Hom cawv no yuav yog Parker nyiam style, yog li ntawd lub sijhawm hu ua "Parker's era". Parker yog tus huab tais cawv txiv hmab tiag tiag thaum lub sijhawm. Nws muaj txoj cai rau txoj sia thiab tuag tshaj cawv txiv hmab. Tsuav nws qhib nws lub qhov ncauj, nws yuav ncaj qha tsa lub koob npe nrov ntawm lub winery mus rau qib siab dua. Cov style nws nyiam yog cov style uas wineries sib tw rau.

Tab sis muaj ib txwm muaj cov neeg uas xav tawm tsam, leej twg yuav tsis yog qhov tseem ceeb, thiab leej twg yuav ua raws li kev lig kev cai uas lawv cov poj koob yawm txwv tseg thiab tsis ua raws li cov qauv, txawm tias cov cawv txiv hmab uas lawv tsim tsis tuaj yeem muag ntawm tus nqi siab; cov neeg no yog cov uas "xav tsim cov cawv txiv hmab zoo hauv qab ntawm lawv lub siab". Chateau cov tswv, lawv yog cov neeg tsim kho tshiab thiab cov neeg sib tw raws li cov txiaj ntsig cawv tam sim no.

Qee tus ntawm lawv yog cov tswv winery uas tsuas yog ua raws li kev coj noj coj ua: Kuv yuav ua raws li kuv yawg tau ua. Piv txwv li, Burgundy yeej ib txwm tsim elegant thiab complex wines. Hom Romanee-Conti nruab nrab yog elegant thiab ilv wines. vintage style.

Qee tus ntawm lawv yog cov tswv winery uas ua siab tawv thiab tshiab, thiab tsis txhob lo rau lub dogma yav dhau los: piv txwv li, thaum ua cawv txiv hmab, lawv hais kom tsis txhob siv cov poov xab ua lag luam, tab sis tsuas yog siv cov poov xab, uas yog ib qho ntawm cov npe nrov tshaj plaws. hauv Rioja, Spain; Txawm hais tias xws li cawv yuav muaj qee qhov "tsis kaj siab"" saj, tab sis qhov nyuaj thiab zoo yuav nce mus rau qib siab dua;

Lawv kuj muaj cov neeg sib tw rau cov cai tam sim no, xws li Australian wine king thiab brewer ntawm Penfolds Grange, Max Schubert. Tom qab nws rov qab los rau teb chaws Australia tom qab kawm txog kev ua cawv txiv hmab los ntawm Bordeaux, nws ntseeg ruaj khov tias Australian Syrah kuj tseem tuaj yeem txhim kho cov ntxhiab tsw qab thiab nthuav tawm cov txiaj ntsig zoo tshaj plaws tom qab kev laus.

Thaum nws thawj zaug brewed Grange, nws tau txais kev thuam ntau dua, thiab txawm tias lub winery yuam nws kom tsis txhob brewing Grange. Tab sis Schubert ntseeg nyob rau hauv lub hwj chim ntawm lub sij hawm. Nws tsis ua raws li qhov kev txiav txim siab ntawm lub winery, tab sis tsis pub leej twg paub, brewed, thiab laus nws tus kheej; thiab tom qab ntawd muab cov seem rau lub sijhawm. Nyob rau xyoo 1960, thaum kawg ntawm xyoo 1960, Grange tau ua pov thawj muaj zog ntawm Australian wines, thiab Australia kuj muaj nws tus huab tais wine.

Grange sawv cev rau ib qho kev tawm tsam, kev tawm tsam, tsis yog dogmatic style ntawm cawv.

Cov neeg tuaj yeem qhuas cov neeg tsim khoom tshiab, tab sis tsawg tus neeg them nyiaj rau lawv.

Innovation nyob rau hauv wine yog complex. Piv txwv li, txoj kev xaiv cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo yog xaiv kev xaiv phau ntawv lossis xaiv lub tshuab? Piv txwv li, tus txheej txheem ntawm nias kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, yog nws nias nrog stems los yog softly nias? Lwm qhov piv txwv yog kev siv cov poov xab. Cov neeg feem coob lees paub tias cov poov xab ib txwm muaj (tsis muaj lwm cov poov xab ntxiv thaum ua cawv, thiab cov poov xab nqa los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo nws tus kheej raug tso cai rau ferment) tuaj yeem ferment ntau dua thiab hloov tau aromas, tab sis wineeries muaj kev lag luam siab. Yuav tsum xav txog kev lag luam poov xab uas yuav tswj tau qhov zoo ib yam winery style.

Cov neeg feem coob tsuas xav txog cov txiaj ntsig ntawm kev xaiv tes, tab sis tsis xav them rau nws.

Mus rau me ntsis ntxiv, tam sim no yog lub sijhawm tom qab Parker (suav los ntawm Parker cov nyiaj laus), thiab ntau thiab ntau lub wineries pib xav txog lawv cov tswv yim ua lag luam yav dhau los. Thaum kawg, peb yuav tsum brew lub tag nrho lub cev thiab unrestrained style ntawm "txoj kev" nyob rau hauv kev ua lag luam, los yog peb yuav tsum brew ib tug ntau elegant thiab ilv wine style, los yog ib tug tshiab thiab xav txog tej yam style?

Lub cheeb tsam Oregon ntawm Tebchaws Meskas tau teb cov lus teb. Lawv brewed Pinot Noir uas yog elegant thiab muag heev li Burgundy nyob rau Fabkis; Hawke's Bay hauv New Zealand tau teb cov lus teb. Lawv kuj brewed Pinot Noir nyob rau hauv under-appreciated New Zealand Lub Bordeaux style ntawm thawj loj hlob.

Hawke's Bay's "Classified Chateau", Kuv yuav sau ib tsab xov xwm tshwj xeeb txog New Zealand tom qab.

Nyob rau sab qab teb ntawm European Pyrenees, ib qho chaw hu ua Rioja, kuj tseem muaj lub chaw ua dej caw uas tau muab cov lus teb:

Spanish wines muab rau tib neeg lub tswv yim tias ntau, ntau cov ntoo qhib ntoo tau siv. Yog 6 lub hlis tsis txaus ces 12 lub hlis, thiab yog tias 12 lub hlis tsis txaus, nws yuav yog 18 lub hlis, vim cov neeg hauv zos nyiam cov tshuaj tsw qab tshaj plaws uas coj los ntawm kev laus dua.

Tab sis muaj ib tug winery uas xav hais tias tsis. Lawv tau brewed ib qho cawv txiv hmab uas koj tuaj yeem nkag siab thaum koj haus nws. Nws muaj cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo tshiab thiab tawg paj, uas yog tsw qab thiab muaj ntau dua nplua nuj. Ib txwm cawv.

Nws yog qhov sib txawv ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo liab liab ntawm lub Ntiaj Teb Tshiab, tab sis zoo ib yam li cov ntshiab, nplua nuj thiab zoo nkauj ntawm New Zealand. Yog hais tias kuv siv ob lo lus los piav txog nws, nws yuav yog "ntshiab", lub aroma yog huv heev, thiab qhov tiav kuj yog huv heev.

Qhov no yog Rioja Tempranillo tag nrho ntawm kev tawm tsam thiab xav tsis thoob.

Nws tau siv New Zealand Wine Association 20 xyoo thaum kawg txiav txim siab lawv cov lus tshaj tawm, uas yog "Ntshiab", uas yog ib qho style, lub tswv yim ntawm winemaking, thiab tus cwj pwm ntawm txhua lub wineries hauv New Zealand. Kuv xav tias qhov no yog "dawb huv" Spanish cawv nrog New Zealand tus cwj pwm.

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Post lub sij hawm: May-24-2023